Wednesday, September 9, 2009

I really do live in Brazil...my trip to Chapada dos Veadeiros

This weekend I realized that I really do live in Brazil. Andrea told me that the first time she left Brasilia, she came to the realization that she was really living in a whole other country. Tambem for me!

It was a weekend of adventure, hiking, singing, fun and not a lot of sleep but it was the perfect way to kick off my travel adventures in Brazil.

The crew was a combined newbie, veteran and Brazilian bunch. It made for some great bonding and language learning. My new friends Mark and Vanessa also have a blog. Mark described this trip as the GGT (Great Gringo Trip). I think that's a perfect way to paint the weekend. The blog is now linked to mine. It's truly a must as Vanessa's beautiful photos and Mark's clever take on our lives here. Check out the Friends I Follow area.

Back to the adventure...Friday afternoon at about 5 p.m., after a bit of credit card difficulty, we were finally able to load up tiny clown cars and begin our camping adventure. On our way out of town, we stopped at the Flamingo gas station/bread store/convenience store/motel to grab a few snacks for our ride. They had delicious pao de queijo and other bready treats. It was the perfect pick-me-up for the long journey which we were about to begin. Flamingo Gas Station outside of Brasilia, yummy bread store in back left corner
We rented 2 cars and then one of Miguel's friends, Rafael also drove. Combined persons on this adventure = 12. In the lovely Chevy car seen below, I rode with 4 other teachers. Miguel, Libby, Sam and Hirsch (one of 3 Erins on this trip - we now officially use last names). Sam, Hirsch and I squeezed into the backseat for the ride there.
Our tiny ride, a Chevy Delta

In addition to all the people crammed into the cars we also had tents, backpacks, sleeping bags, pillows and miscellaneous food and drink. The drive from Brasilia to the Chapadas usually takes about 3 - 3.5 hours. Friday night it took us 5 1/2 hours to get from Brasilia to Sao Jorge. Now, I have no complaints about this part of the trip as it inspired us to add song to the entire weekend whenever possible, many inside jokes were started, lots of fun was had, scantily clothed men were seen and we just really got to know each other in a very close and confined setting.

After arriving to our campground, we had to begin setting up camp. Some of this went very easily, other parts, well you can probably infer what may have happened from the photo.
Sam, Miguel and Baeta working hard to set up "The Palace."

While the boys were working very hard to set up one tent, the girls tried to help but gender roles are hard to break and we eventually sat back and relaxed. The mission was accomplished, however...thanks Hirsch! And they gave her credit too!
2 Erins relaxing while the boys were setting up tents...Erin Hayes (left) and Erin Hirsch (right)

After setting up camp, we all needed a break. We'd been in the car for almost 5 hours, set up a camp at night and had been at school all day. What's the perfect fix for that? Miguel and Rafael began to sing. They both are amazing musicians who play the guitar and sing beautiful harmonized duets. We were serenaded into the night.

The next morning, we woke up, dressed and found some breakfast at a cute restaurant down the street. We wandered around the town of Sao Jorge (St. George) a bit...
Small town. One main drag. It's definitely growing.
The Chapada is said to have many UFO sightings, especially since it's on the same parallel as Machu Picchu. Didn't feel the same mysticism here as there. We were asked by one local while we were out exploring if we'd seen any UFOs. Here's our conversation...
Sao Jorge Purse Stand Owner - "Have you seen any UFO's?"

Gringa Megan - "Not yet. Have you?"

Sao Jorge Purse Stand Owner - "No."

Gringa Megan - "Do you know anyone who has?"

Guy (his other name is getting too long to type!) - "Yes. And you can too."

Gringa Megan - "How?"

Guy -"Well, you just have to have a drink, and then another drink and then another drink and then maybe you will see one. If you don't, have another drink."
Road to our campground
Then we went back to camp to wait for our other gringo friends who had decided to drive on Saturday instead. When we got back to camp, a few things began to happen.
1. We hung out and Miguel taught us a new card game. Truco. Fun and easy game but some great strategy. I'll try and teach you sometime.

2. It rained!
3. The Independence Day refugee camp in Bolbi's (pronounced Bobby) backyard (really truly, it was his backyard - Landon I see a new business for you!) was growing. Our small camp tripled in size. A few statistics to note when camping in the Chapadas...

toilets = 2 (1 boy, 1 girl),

fully equipped kitchen = 1,

plastic lawn chairs = 8,

number of campers by the end of Saturday night...I'll estimate 40 - 45.

After Erin #3 (aka Gallagher) and John and Mark and Vanessa arrived and set up camp, we quickly got our things together and headed off to Vale de Lua. In English that is Valley of the Moon. It definitely lives up to its name.

After bouncing along a dirt-esk road (it's more like a rock road - not gravel, like rock) to another windy dirt road and down away from the dry cerrado landscape, you stumble into a rainforest like area and then suddenly, that changes again. The landscape was almost something out of a movie set on Mars or some type of Land of the Lost tv show.
The wildlife was crazy!
The plants looked deadly.

But then, we heard it. The river.

The rocks look like something straight off the sci-fi channel. They've been carved so much by the river. There are several small falls and the water is very fast moving. We hiked along the top of the river until we found an area where we could go swimming.

I'm usually not a big swimmer but it was very hot and so a cool dip sounded just right. While Vanessa and I lounged in the water, many of the boys and Hirsch jumped off of rocks into the water. They looked just like a group of young boys...exploring, jumping and checking out huge spiders. Yuck! No photos of those. I'm too chicken and really just don't want another Brazilian species to attack.After our hike and swimming, we were hungry and tired so we headed back to camp in Sao Jorge. More exploring and hanging out in the town. The GGT is recognizible by Sam's white hat and John's green trucker hat in the center of the photo.

With it being Independence Day weekend, Sao Jorge, was well jam packed. I would recommend choosing a different weekend to go there mainly because everything was just crazy full and loud. Sao Jorge is usually known for the opposite. People were poured out into the streets, their tiny clown car trunks and doors popped with loud music playing (Brittany Spears to forro).

As you can see, the party was just starting up around 6:30. Literally people were dancin' in the street.

Some of us hadn't had a bite to eat and wanted a quieter atmosphere so we walked down the street to a yummy pizza and crepe restaurant called Lua de Sao Jorge. Funny how crepes are so popular and so delicious in Brazil! I had a delicious cheese pizza and a caiprioska. Yum!

There was another reason to celebrate this weekend though. It also was Mark's birthday. He turned the big 2-9 and was surprised by a yummy Nutella crepe complete with candle and Happy Birthday sung in Portuguese by the waitstaff. One addition to Happy Birthday here is that everyone claps throughout the whole song so other tables joined in the fun surprise.

Mark enjoying the singing and his amazing Nutella birthday crepe of the gods.

It wound up being an earlier night for me. I think lack of sleep, a headache from too much fun and lack of sleep caught up with me so I was the first one down for the night. The campground party ended earlier that night which was nice so there was actually quiet, other than some snoring for a bit.

The next day we took a trip to a local waterfall near Sao Bento. There were several falls to choose from. We took a hike to the falls. Vanessa, Hayes and I took our time on the hike. We let several different categories of hikers pass us...families, young people drinking beer and smoking while hiking in flipflops and just anyone else who moved more quickly than we did. As with most hikes, you round a bend and then, ahhhh, all the sweat and feeling out of shape goes away when you see the view.

As you can see, people rappelled down the waterfall on the right. The pool itself was quite deep. To reach the falls you had to swim across the lagoon. Vanessa and I became rock climbers and ventured down the sides of the pool into the water. It was so refreshing after our hike. She's definitely my waterfall friend. It was pretty crowded but our GGT crew found a quieter area and were able after swimming to sit and watch others so some cliff jumping. It was fun to watch as each of the boys went to the edge of the cliff and how they postured as they prepared to jump. And yes, you can already see the Brazilian male swimming outfit here. It's called a sunga.


After our swimming, we got back into the cars with a little more room this time. Some of us headed straight back to Brasilia, while a small group of us, myself included went to Alto Paraiso for a delicious lunch. It so reminded me of home cooking. Couldn't have asked for something better after a long weekend away.

Hirsch, Sam, Vanessa and I shared the car on the way back. In addition to continuing our serenading, Sam spotted a toucan, we saw a huge grass fire and drove into Brasilia with no traffic. Couldn't have asked for a better end to the weekend.

The Chapada is known for it's biodiversity. Gallagher told me it is the most diverse on the planet. Even more diverse than the rainforest or a coral reef. She's a high school biology teacher so the source is definitely reliable. Why mention this now? That's because the trip was diverse too...hiking, relaxing, listening to wonderful music, eating, swimming in waterfalls, sharing a bathroom with 40 people and just getting to know some of the diverse people that are now a big part of my life. So, I guess it really is true. I do live in Brazil.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Independence Day

Today is Brazil's Independence Day. Happy Day to Brazil!

To me, this is also a happy day because I have a 3 day weekend. Mine is at a much more superficial level than the entire country's level but I'll be honest. I've needed this break, hey, I've deserved this long weekend but I feel I should share what I've learned about the holiday, how we celebrated at EAB to make myself a feel a little more productive and also to honor my new home.

Earlier last week, we received an email from the Brazilian studies chair/guru that we would be having an Independence Day celebration on Friday morning.
She also shared how Brazil gained it's independence from Portugal. My knowledge level was only that. For those of you who want to learn more, here is a bit of Brazilian history for you...For those of you who'd rather skip the history, scroll down to the regular font again.
'This year Brazil is commemorating its 187th year of Independence. The Regent Dom Pedro I declared Brazilian Independence from Portugal on September 7, 1822.
In the year 1808, King John VI of Portugal decided to flee from the oncoming French troops of Napoleon and moved the government of Portugal to Brazil. Although King John VI was well liked, the Brazilian people did not feel the same about many of the nobles who accompanied him. They looked to his son Dom Pedro as their natural leader.
When King John VI returned to Portugal he left his son as Prince Regent of Brazil in April 1821. Powerful people in Portugal ordered that Dom Pedro also return to Portugal, because they were afraid of his growing popularity and power in Brazil. Dom Pedro would not go back and declared the Independence of Brazil on September 7, 1822 and was crowned emperor.
Independence is life – and that is why Dom Pedro chose it when he said, “INDEPENDENCE OR DEATH”.
We are very happy and very proud to say that the first country to recognize the newly Independent Brazil was the United States of America in 1824.'
All week long my students helped to prepare for the celebration in their Portuguese and Brazilian Social Studies classes. The bulletin boards were decorated with flags and streamers. My students had song lyrics for the national anthem and other patriotic songs in their notebooks.
The kids (and I) were very excited because we were to wear Brazilian flag colors...bright blue, green or yellow and we could wear jeans. Yea! Not a part of the Friday routine for us.
So, I wore my bright green shirt and jeans. My class rolled in wearing a sea of blue, green and yellow from head to toe. Many had stopped by the art room on the way and even had the colors painted on their faces. One thing I should mention before going any further is that Friday was the hottest day it's been since I moved to Brasilia. The assembly was great but the heat made it difficult to concentrate. Even for me! You can see how sunny it was from the squinty eyes in all the photos, but the heat, man oh man...
The entire school went outside to the soccer field at 9:15 a.m. The program had songs, a dramatic performance and more singing. The Brazilian, US and Federal District flags were raised. It was amazing to see the patriotism from young to old. Everyone has their Brazilian colors. I was told my the PE teacher that I needed to buy a Brazil shirt. I told him I was wearing one. He told me, it didn't count and I should buy one. Put that on the list for the next holiday...The entire assembly was performed in Portuguese. All songs, all speaking. This made is a little challenging for me. Talk about using my observations to know when to stand, sing, etc. Can you see their passion for Brazil? It's all over their faces! Or it's their face after a 40 minute long assembly in the heat. Not sure...you decide.

I really enjoyed the entire assembly, minus the heat, but to bring everyone together around the day, from 3-year-olds to 18-year-olds. Being an expat in another country, it's always amazing to see how much pride people take in their country. It's not a surprise, but just wonderful to be a part of the pride.

Above is a brief video clip of one song some of the kids sang. The song itself is a well-known song and the lyrics were changed so the quality is not the point here. They kids are singing, "Brazil is muito bom." Meaning Brazil is great! That's the point, especially on Independence Day. And I definitely have to say it's true. Brazil is pretty great.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Chapada Here We Come!

Tomorrow at 3:05 begins the first 3-day holiday of the school year. Hooray! I'm headed camping. Yes, I know, I haven't camped since I was about 8, but it's adventure. Miguel, as usual, is organizing our trip. Mostly newbies are going on the adventure. We've got 3 cars, 9 people, full coolers and I can't remember how many tents now.

I hate to write more until after, but for those of you who want the scoop on it, like Maz, here's a link with all the info you could ever want!

http://www.chapada.com/english/chapadaeng.htm

Leaving tomorrow at 4:00. Back sometime on Sunday. Can't hardly wait!


Pedicure Wanted and Needed

Since arriving in Brasilia, I think I've walked more here than I have combined in the past probably 3 years. This is mainly due to the lack of an automobile. Now, don't take that the wrong way. Being carless is actually really nice. I walk to school every morning, walk to the grocery store with a large backpack (10 minutes or so) and walk to coffee. And sometimes, just walk to walk.

As wonderful as all of this walking has been to my waistline, reduce stress and build in some daily exercise, there are a few downsides to it.

1. Biting insects
Last weekend, I was attacked, literally, by a swarm of something.

This particular insect attacked at night while I was cutting through a field (learned my lesson) with my friend Sam. I felt a sharp pain on my foot, looked down and saw a HUGE insect hanging onto my foot, tried to pull it off and really had to yank at it as it bit me further. Ouch! Then I suddenly felt pain on the other foot, this pesky insect had another friend who apparently thought I was trying to move into their turf. I leaned on Sam's sholder while trying keep my balance AND now to pull off the other bug when I realized, ouch again, I had another bite.

I ran to the sidewalk where I took off both shoes and got the bugs off my feet while Sam backed away. Literally I saw him step back. He said I proved my Irishness that night as apparently I dig some Celtic bug jig while trying to get them off my feet. I will say though that Sam did step up. He took one of my flipflops and checked to make sure there weren't any friends on my legs or on my bag. He also did kill a few friends while I was wildly yelling and trying to pull the remainder off of my pants.

When I got home, I stripped at the door of my apartment, threw my clothes into the wash and took a shower. I was worried there may have been reinforcements hiding somewhere. I did find a dead one on my flipflop when I got home and of course now wish I had taken a photo, but when something had hurt you so badly, the last thing you think to do is stop and take a photo, I squashed it and then flushed it down the toilet just in case. It looked like an ant with a huge head, enormous mandibles and was kind of clear in color. I've searched high and low on google to find it but alas it's a mystery...

That night and next day, I did feel a little strange. I had a couple of other bug bites and a few cuts on my body which all throbbed, I had difficulty sleeping and I had a bad headache. Guess these guys were serious. Luckily this only lasted about 48 hours. All better now. Physically anyway.

So, lesson learned, when in Brasilia, don't cut across the fields at night, even if that's about 5 minutes shorter. It's soooo not worth it.

Reason #2 why walking in Brasilia has it's downside...
2. Dirt
My feet are always dirty, like always. I'm annoyed because I left my camera at school. I wanted to take a photo and post it. You all would be shocked my how gross they are. Always are. Whether I wear heels, flipflops, sneakers, whatever, they get dirty. Guess that's what happens when you live in a red soil area but man, does it ever take a toll on the feet.

I'll have to save the dirty foot photo for another day. Most of you are probably very disappointed. Ha! Have to wait on that photo op for another day.

Monday, August 24, 2009

My One Month Anniversary

One month ago today I arrived in Brasilia. It's crazy to think time's gone by that quickly! My Portuguese is improving steadily, I've met some amazing people, Brazil is wonderful and being back in the classroom tops the list.

Not that I'm that much wiser in a month, but a few weeks ago Maz (aka Tracy Maz my amazing reading specialist friend from Kaneland) sent me a great list of questions about life in Brazil. I think her questions and my answers make the perfect post for today, my one month anniversary living in Brasilia.

Maz's Random and Odd Questions
(These questions really aren't so odd or random, just curious, that's all and I want to make sure you all know she titled them random and odd, not me!)

So do you find that people who are attracted to international schools are more like "our type of people"...do you not get cranky, rigid people there?
The people are more like "our type of people." From the staff at school to my building's guard to the waiter at dinner tonight, everyone is wonderful and helpful. So far the cranky people here haven't crossed my path.

What is on the radio? American music? Is there Brazilian pop music? I'm imagining tan NSYNC!
No tan NSYNC that I listen to, but I'm sure they're out there! I'm listening to some bits and pieces on the radio but mostly am enjoying the forro (pronounced fo-ho) and samba music. Over the weekend I went to Cornhills, Brasilia's version of an American coffee shop. And it's amazing by the way! Across the street is another bar/restaurant and they have live samba music. People were dancing and it was fun just to sit and watch them. Seriously, felt like I was in some type of dream!

What is on TV? (Not that you've had time to watch much TV). How many channels are there? What are the commercials like? Are they dubbed American shows or Brazilian shows? Brazilian CSI or Brazilian All My Children or Brazilian Family Ties??
I just got my tv hooked up on Saturday. So far I've just watched BBC and an episode of Sex and the City. While flipping through I saw a familiar tv show from the Discovery Channel was dubbed but Sex and the City had subtitles. I hear lots of people talking about watching the Gilmore Girls. Not sure if I can jump on that bandwagon yet, but I'll never say never. Haven't had the chance to watch much Brazilian programming yet, but will update.

How is driving there? What brands of cars do they have there? What's the size of the vehicles there? Are they more on line with the Smart Car or the Excursion?
Most people drive Fiats. Another popular brand is VW. There's a plant in Brazil. There are imports like Honda and Toyota but here those average around $40,000 with a 100% import tax. Yikes! Mostly people drive smaller sedan cars. The school owns a couple VW vans which remind me of the TV show LOST so I feel like I'm part of the Dharma Initiative but much fewer trucks and vans than in the U.S. There's a lot of gray and dark colored cars like in the States. I guess to have additional colors costs $$$. Haven't seen a single large SUV yet! (I have since I wrote this 2 weeks ago, however, they are definitely not common). Love that about here. Sorry, large SUV readers, just a personal environmental issue.

Do they recycle?
Recycling's turning the door here. Stores are starting to sell reusable bags. At school during lunch there are recycling containers. I scrap my tray into the organic can which they're going to use in our garden (I think) and have bins for other plastics, papers and so on. The cafeteria (we call is the canteen) also use trays and plates which are washed rather than thrown away. The only exception to that is glasses. They use thin plastic toss away cups (even for hot coffee) but I saw Erica (my teammate) ask for a real glass which now I do each day. At my apartment, there's no recycling but I bought a bin as others had suggested and several grocery stores and gas stations have them so I'll bring things there.

How's the food?
Oh my god the food. It's amazing! Everything is just wonderful. From fruit to veggies to meat to bread. It's an easy place to eat well!

Have you tried cooking for yourself yet? How are the grocery stores? Or will you buy most of your stuff at the market?
I've done some basic cooking but really not in the routine of it yet. I buy most of my things at different grocery stores. There's small one and larger ones. Just depends. The closest one to my house is about 2.5 Chicago city blocks away. Makes it tough when you're buying certain things...milk, laundry detergent, etc.

Any recommendations for learning Portuguese before spring break? I should see if Gwen wants to get together once a week to bring in the social aspect of our Portuguese training!
Portuguese before spring break's not a bad idea. If you choose to focus on things I'd say numbers, basic phrases (how much does this cost?, ordering from menus, etc). The guest room's all ready so if anyone else wants to visit, just email me and I'll put you down in the reservation book!

So, thanks Maz for the curious questions. They helped me to stop and pause to reflect about my time here but also how different and similar Brazil is to home. Keep the questions coming!

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Oh Canada and Libanos

I hope you sang the beginning of the Canadian national anthem as you read the post title.

Chris + Miguel = organizers for a wonderful Friday night!
Chris, EAB's Lower School art teacher and Miguel, my classroom assistant, spread the word for a happy hour. We all met after school to enjoy just some time relaxing together at a local Lebanese bar called Libanos.
It's one of the most popular hangouts around. Large restaurant with lots of outdoor seating. Plastic lawn chairs and tables. When you first go, you wonder a bit about why this place is so special, but once you've gone a few times, you see it's not about the decor, but the atmosphere, people of all ages, all types sitting around just relaxing. I didn't pull out my camera earlier enough here.

The table we originally sat at kept growing and growing are more and more staff arrived. We enjoyed sharing large bottles of Antarctica beer. As we sat sharing drinks, laughs and stories, we began to feel small drops of rain.

Rain in August in Brasilia's unheard of. But yesterday, around 5:30 or so, it did rain. The first rain of the dry season. Rain doesn't usually come until October. I'll write more about the weather another time. Back to Libanos...our group moved inside toward the back and continued the fun.

Then around 7:30 or so we decided to head off to the Canadian Embassy's Happy Hour. Oh my, the embassy is just such a beautiful space. They have green grass, multiple pools, beautiful patios with wonderful lawn furniture, billiards, great music (if you're ever in Brasilia make sure to check out DJ Marked Papers sometime - he's an underground secret EAB dj - who knew?) and food. Canada knows how to do it right!
Figure it's better to show you what I mean...
The girls enjoying some of the delicious food...patatas fritas (french fries) steak, chicken and I had a wonderful ou sanduĂ­che da carne asada (beef sandwich). Sorry for the graininess - I finally figured out how to take night shots - the photos improve as you read on...
Salude Sam e Laura! Or cheers to Sam and Laura in Portuguese. Wanna come to my apartment?
It wouldn't be the Canadian Embassy without some type of hockey painting, would it?

Cute couple...our hs science teachers Erin and John outside the EmbassyChatting and waiting outside the embassy for our taxiSmiles all around after a fun night. Looking forward to next Friday!

NUWA + friends = perfect evening

Due to a crazily busy week, I've taken a week off of blogging. This morning I thought I'd do a bit of catch up to share a couple of the highlights of my week.

NUWA...oh my goodness.

This week some of my wonderful new friends, a dear old friend and I went to NUWA Spa to celebrate a birthday.

This is seriously one of the most beautiful spas I think I've ever visited. I wish I could post photos but we all forgot cameras but definitely check out their link.

Even their website music is beautiful. I'd suggest leaving the link open so you can really soak in the beautiful setting as you read.

Here's the link: http://www.nuwaspa.com.br/
For those of you who don't yet speak Portuguese, if you click on above the rocks on the words that say "o espaco" which means space, you can see photos of it. I can't seem to snag any photos to put up on here.

A few highlights of our wonderful birthday evening together:
  • using chopsticks to eat soba noodles from China in Box in the backseat of a car for dinner,
  • translating our fortune cookie messages from Portuguese to English,
  • arriving into the beautiful open space and being greeted so warmly by the staff,
  • changing into the luxiously soft yoga top and pants,
  • lounging on deliciously huge white leather couches while laughing and chatting with friends,
  • soaking my feet in a beautiful wooden bowl with lovely flowers,
  • tea placed in Indian inspired glasses placed on top of tv trays with tiny bud vases,
  • free champagne to celebrate the birthday girl,
  • my massage,
  • showering in the most amazing shower ever! huge space, beautiful wooden floors and oh my goodness the shower itself...ahhhh and
  • joining my friends back on the couches in complete bliss and sharing a birthday dessert while just enjoying more company.

It was just what I needed this week and I can't believe I was so spoiled for a friend's birthday. If you live here or are coming to visit, put this on your list for sure.